Honestly, if you think French Lick is just a dusty resort from the founding period, you're wrong. The city was built around 1820, when French trappers broke up their camps here – hence the name – and developed in late 19. Century to a sparkling mineral and horse racing hotspot. Today it is located in the heart of French Lick Township, Orange County, and still wears the flair of a long past era, only with fewer horse odours.
I usually drive over the I‐69, then a short trip to the US‐150, and voilà – you are in the middle of the small Indiana paradise. The small airport of French Lick is practically only for those who like to arrive with the propeller plane, but most of us land in Indianapolis and then take the train or a rental car. The train does not stop directly, but a short jump by bus will take you to the center where you immediately feel stuck in another time.
What I like about the French Lick sights is the mix of historical patina and modern self-iron of the locals. The old hotels have more stories to tell than some Netflix series, and the people here like to laugh about the tourist buzz while showing you the best places to relax – without much lifting, but with an eye-catcher.
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The first place I have to put to each newman's heart is that Hoosier National Forest, a wild knot of beech, oaks and countless hiking trails that wind like a discarded maze through the hills. I once tried to find the “Lost Trail” there – a mad way that wrapped me around my finger for almost three hours before I finally arrived at a clear stream that was so clean that I almost had my lunch sandwich bathed in it. Parking is usually easy, except for weekends when the families flood the forest with their strollers and picnic baskets; then it becomes a real patience game.
A short detour to the south leads you to Patoka LakeThe largest reservoir in the south of Indiana. Here you can not only fish, but also a bit of boating if you want to fry the sun – no joke, the water is so warm in the summer that you almost feel like swimming in the bathroom. I remember an evening that I sat with a few locals at the campfire, while an old angler told me that he has been trying his luck here since the 70s every summer – and every time he claims he had the “big catch”.
Only half an hour further Lincoln State Park, a piece of Indiana story that is about the birthplace of Abraham Lincoln. The visitor centers are a bit cheesy, but the hiking trails that lead to the old hilltops have a bit of reverence. I once made a picnic there, while an elderly man in a wore hat told me about his grandmother, who is supposed to have shared a handshake with Lincoln himself – I immediately felt the touch of legend, even if I identified the touch of perfume in the wind rather than a tourist perfume.
If you have enough of nature, jump to West Baden Springs Hotel that almost looks like a giant crystal ball floating above the valley. The atrium is so great that you almost feel like standing inside a greenhouse, only that here no plants, but artful stucco works and a huge chandelier break the light. I drank a cocktail there while a pianist played Mozart in the background – a bit cheesy, but honestly, that was a real eye-catcher for my Instagram story.
A bit further north, almost like from another time, this is Indiana Railway Museum. Here you can go through the landscape with an old steam locomotive, while the whistle of the Trillerpfeife gives you the feeling of being stuck in a Western film. I drove the first time there with my nephew; he was thrilled by the squeaking brakes and I was glad that I was not more than a few meters away from the track, because parking there is a small miracle – a narrow car park that offers enough space for a car if you are not too big.
A short trip to Paoli, the small district town, is worth it because of the historical Orange County Courthouse. The building is a prime example of Victorian architecture, and the surrounding cobblestone streets feel like walking through a lively history book. I visited a local market where an older baker sold me a piece of apple cake that was so good that I would have donated almost all the money for the museum – a small, sweet moment that makes the city live.
Last but not least a short detour to Indiana Wine Trailwhere the small wineries around French Lick open their doors. I have Oliver Winery visited not only for its red wines, but also for the friendly owners who give you the feeling that you are a long-term friend. The wine tasting room has a rustic flair, and the staff explains the differences between the varieties without sounding too much after a sales call – a rare enjoyment in an area that is otherwise more known for their hotels and lakes.
Whether you're wandering through the dense green of the Hoosier National Forest, enjoying the sun on the banks of Patoka Lake or taking a drink in the historic ruins of the West Baden Springs Hotel – the environment of French Lick has more to offer than you would suspect at first sight. And if you pack it all together, you get a pretty good picture of why the French Lick Attractions not only for wellness lovers, but for anyone looking for a bit of adventure, history and good wine, they are worth a visit.
I have to admit that my favourite place in French Lick is not what the brochures sell with the big gold rim – it is the old honorable French Lick Springs Hotelwhich, like a weathered gentleman, fits into the landscape. I came there on a rainy Tuesday because the weather here is almost always a mystery, and was immediately greeted by the lobby that smells more like a museum of forgotten elegance than a hotel. The bed was surprisingly comfortable, breakfast – a bit too much syrup, but hey, that's Indiana – nevertheless made me start the day with a walk through the adjacent park.
Located next to the hotel French Lick Springs State Park, a place I like to call the green lung of the city. The trails are well marked, but when you arrive at a group of families on weekends, parking at the main parking lot can become a real patience game – I spent almost three hours in the car there, because a tractor blocked the entrance. Nevertheless, it is worth hiking to the old mineral sources; the water is no longer what it was, but the water is a nice companion to my inner monologue about the “good old times”.
A short detour leads you to West Baden Springs Hotel, which with its huge dome almost acts like an oversized glass ball donut. I don't quite understand the hype around the dome – it's just a roof over a hotel – but the acoustics in the ballroom is really impressive, and if you're lucky, you'll hear the quiet echo of an old jazz band that played here decades ago. Parking is a bit more relaxed here as long as you don't arrive on Friday night when the casino lights dive into a neon spectrum.
Now to French Lick AttractionsI personally call the “play cards” of the city: the casino at the resort. I played a few hands of blackjack there, just to see that the real gambling is to decide whether to taste the expensive buffet or rather spend the money for a beer in the bar area. The service is friendly, but the noise scene can quickly remind you of an overcrowded airport – so bring headphones when you are looking for your rest.
Another highlight I can hardly overlook is the French Lick Golf Club. The two places – one of Pete Dye, the other of Tom Fazio – are a bit like a test for your patience and ego. I tried the 18th. To master the hole of Dye Square, and landed in the bunker because I thought I could shoot the ball “simply over the water”. Spoiler: That didn't work. Nevertheless, the green is well maintained, and the clubhouse serves a burger that is almost as good as the game itself.
If you're looking for a little nostalgia, get into the French Lick Scenic Railway one. The old steam locomotive baptizes and whistles as it goes through the hilly terrain – a bit like a time trip, only without the danger of being stuck in the past. I made the trip in autumn, and the leaves turned the track bed into a fireworks of red and gold. Practical: The departure is in the early afternoon, and the ticket will be sent directly to the railway station, where an older gentleman with a mustache will tell you a few anecdotes about the old railway.
Last but not least a short trip to Indiana Racing Museumlocated in the heart of the city and documenting the history of horse racing, which once was the backbone of the economy. I was there on a quiet Tuesday, so I was lucky to have the exhibition almost for me. The old Jockey helmets and the shiny silver jewellery from the 1920s are a real eye-catcher, and the museum even offers a small café where you can drink a coffee while thinking about the “glorious” days where the city had more visitors because of the races than because of the casinos.
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