Honestly, if you ask yourself why West Baden Springs exists at all, you have to travel back to 1902, when a wealthy railway magnate decided to build a “mirror of architecture” to lure the tired travelers from the nearby French Lick. That was the counterpart to a Hollywood blockbuster, only made of stone and steel. Today, the story sounds through every alley, and I can't ask myself if the city is not just a huge monument to over-ambited entrepreneurs.
I usually travel by train to Indianapolis and then take Highway 150 – a short but picturesque ride that leads you through fields that seem to have more cow bells than tourist attractions. Once you see the French Lick Township shields, you know that you landed in Orange County, where the air smells like pine trees and a bit of nostalgia.
Once arrived, the cityscape – a mix of Victorian villas and modern motels – keeps me wondering. I don't quite understand the hype around West Baden Spring's sights, but the old venerable casino next to the famous fountain is a real secret tip for me. I find the perfect mix of history, cynicism and a touch of luxury that you can only see in film sets.
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The first place I can't miss is the glittering casino of the French Lick Resort – yes, the same that already started the high society in the 1920s and today still tries to bait the Millennials with a “Free-Drink-Monday”. I once took a 5 Euro chip into my hands, just to find out that the staff prefers to chat about the building's history than to pay me a profit. Parking is usually a Klacks as long as you don't come on Friday night, then the car park becomes a battlefield.
A short detour into the Hoosier National Forest makes me wonder how much green Indiana actually has to offer. The Knobstone Trail, which stretches over 80 miles, is a real test for the condition – I once tried to run the whole section in one day and ended up gorging on a small stream after three hours, where an older gentleman offered me a piece of bread. Simple ingenious for everyone who likes to whisk in the mud, but not necessarily for those who want to keep their shoes clean.
Patoka Lake is what you could call the “Indiana version of Lake Tahoe”, only without the Alps in the background. I rented a kayak there in the summer and I rode over the smooth water surfaces, while a swarm duck curiously stunned me. Boat landing is almost always free, except for the long weekends when the families with barbecue equipment occupy the shore and turn the whole area into an improvised picnic paradise.
A bit of history? Then off to Lincoln State Park, where young Abraham Lincoln hacked wood as a teenager. I visited a small museum that tells more about his youth than the usual tourist chefs. The trail leading to the old wooden ridge is well marked, and the sign with Lincoln's name is so worn out that you almost feel he was rubbed by a bear – a real charm point for nostalgic.
For those who prefer to travel on rails, the Indiana Railway Museum in French Lick is a must. I saw an old steam locomotive that is still fired with coal – a sound that sounds more like “industrial romance” than “dusted museum”. Parking is right in front of the entrance, and the staff lets you look behind the wheel, which ensures an adrenalinkick that you don't experience every day.
A little sporty? The Springs Valley Trail, a 12-mile walkway, stretches through the gentle hills around West Baden. I straightened it at sunrise and heard the quiet sum of the grills, which was almost louder than my own breathing noise. The trail is well maintained, and the few parking spaces in the beginning are usually enough – unless a local running club has a training.
Last but not least, a short note to the Big Splash Water Park, which is a popular starting point for families in summer. I once lost my shoes in the water of slides – a small price for the pleasure you get there. Parking is right next to the entrance, and the staff is friendly enough to dry the wet footwear if you don't want to carry it home immediately.
Whether you prefer the glittering of the casino, the rough green of the Hoosier National Forest or the historic aura of Lincoln State Park – the surroundings of West Baden Springs offer a colorful mix of activities that can satisfy any traveler. And that's exactly what makes West Baden Springs Sights to an unmistakable experience that you should not overlook.
So, if you're going to Indiana the next time, let's go first West Baden Springs Hotel taxes – this is not just a hotel, that is a huge, glass dome room that almost gives you the feeling that you would stumble into a 1900s science fiction set. I don’t understand the hype around the “copper” completely, but the light that falls through the huge glass is really a bit magical, especially if the sun is just so deep that the interior looks like a huge, warm aquarium. Parking is usually easy, except on Saturday night, there will be a real problem because the hotel is then full of casino visitors.
Right next to the hotel is what I like as the Heart of West Baden Springs Sights the old mineral sources. You can still see the sparkling water that once attracted the rich guests from all over America. I once enjoyed a sip – no joke, the water actually tastes like a hint of minerals, not according to the usual chlorine from the urban swimming pools. If you're wondering if the whole thing still works, yes, the sources are still running, and the staff will let you taste a small glass as long as you don't talk too loud about the "health forces".
A short walk further and you stumble over the historic Badhaus, which today serves as a spa and wellness oasis. I have to admit, I was skeptical because I thought it was just an expensive place to relax for the rich, but the old marble bathrooms have a certain charm that almost lets you forget that you are in Indiana. The staff is friendly, the water is warm, and the whole has a light vintage vibe that reminds you of a set from the 30s. Practical: The changing rooms are clean, and parking is right behind the bathroom house, so no stress.
If you have enough of water, look at the West Baden Springs Golf Course an 18-hole-Par‐72, which extends over gentle hills and dense jaws. I've made a few hits there, and although I'm not a pro, the game was quite relaxing because the fairways aren't overrun except for weekends when the local businessmen turn their Sunday rounds. The clubhouse has a small souvenir shop where you can find some kitschige golf magnets if you need your present for the mother-in-law.
A bit further, almost like a hidden gem, lies the old railway depot, which today serves as a small museum for the Indiana Railway. I saw an old steam locomotive that is still fired with coal – a bit like a living relic from another time. The museum is not big, but the guided tours are informative, and the staff even lets you take a photo with the guide if you are polite enough. Practical note: The museum does not have its own parking space, so you have to take a few minutes walk from the main parking lot of the resort.
At the end, if you feel that you have absorbed enough culture and history, take a look at the French Lick Resort and Casino. Yes, this is the same terrain I mentioned at the beginning, but the casino has a very own flair – neon-lit slot machines, a few poker tables, and a bar area that looks more like a chic hotel lounge than a typical gambling palace. I played a few hands there, and although I had no luck, the atmosphere was quite entertaining, especially if you're looking for a long day in the spa or on the golf course a bit of action. Parking is a bit chaotic here because the casino is always full, so plan a few minutes extra.
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