To be honest, when I hear the word “Charleston Sights”, I think first of all about the dusty history of this little center in the heart of Illinois, not the glamour of a coastal city. Founded in 1830, Charleston quickly became the County Seat of Coles County and developed around the then still young Charleston Township – a piece of land that today has more students than peasants, thanks to the Eastern Illinois University, which characterizes the cityscape as a colorful spot in an otherwise gray premise.
I like to drive out with Bloomington's I‐57, because the ride through endless corn fields is almost hypnotic, and then I brake briefly on Highway 45 to catch the first “real” Charleston feeling: the quiet sum of the Uni‐Campus bikes, the occasional squeaking of an old barn, which still serves as a warehouse for agricultural equipment. The charm lies not in the glamour, but in the contrast between the historic city centre and the modern student bars that have more energy than the whole township together.
A walk over the old courthouse square lets me think of the 1840s, when judges still wrote with feathers and the court building was the center of all rumors. Today there is a café that is supposed to serve the best coffee in the region – I don’t understand the hype around the “latte art”, but the sweet aroma is really great.
If you want a bit of nature, take a look at the nearby Lake Charleston, where locals are laying their boats in the summer. The lake is not just a national park, but it offers enough rest to calm down the soul after a day full of “Charleston Sights” before you stumble back into the hustle and bustle of Uni‐Strasses.
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The first place I have to put to each newman's heart is that Lincoln Log Cabin State Historic Site, which is only a few miles south of Charleston and is surprisingly well preserved – a piece of history that is not suffocated by tourist masses. I spent a rainy afternoon there while I tried to decipher the old wood that was supposedly chopped by Abraham Lincoln himself; the tour was dry, but the atmosphere has something from the rough pioneering period that you only know from Hollywood. Parking is almost always a Klack, as long as you don't come on Saturday morning, the field full of families with picnic baskets becomes a small battlefield.
A short trip to the south leads directly to Charleston State Parkwhere the green is so rich that you almost feel like standing in an outdoor equipment commercial. I spent a few hours with my bike there, the trails are well marked, and the bathing lake is a real magnet in the summer – no joke, the water is clear enough to see the underwater world, although most visitors are looking for a cool drink on the beach. The visitor centre has a small café that serves surprisingly good ice cream, and the staff is friendly, though a bit too eager to ask for “historical facts”.
If you have enough of green areas, it is worth a trip to Kaskaskia River State Fish and Wildlife Areaabout 20 minutes west. Here there are more ducks than people, and this is exactly what I appreciate in such places – rest that is only interrupted by quakens and occasional anglers. I tried to catch a pike there for the first time, and even though I only got a small perch to the leash, the experience was still satisfying. The parking spaces are rustic, not covered halls, but this is part of the charm; a small note: the water enters is only allowed in designated places, otherwise there is anger with the supervisors.
A little further north lies Vermilion River State Park, which extends over several kilometers and is a paradise for hikers and birdwatchers. I made a hike there that led me through dense beech forests and open meadows – a mix that is rarely found in a single park. The paths are well maintained, but the signs can sometimes be confusing, so you should have a GPS, otherwise you end up faster in nowhere than in the finish. The visitor center offers a small exhibition about the local flora, which I found surprisingly informative, although I was rather a fan of practical tips.
Another highlight you shouldn't overlook is that Coles County Fairgrounds, which hosts various events throughout the year – from the annual County Fair in summer to flea markets and concerts in autumn. I experienced a local rock band act there for the first time, and although the acoustics in the hall were not perfect, the mood has made up more than compensated. Parking is a children's game here because the terrain is huge, but on the main days of events it can come to a small chaos when everyone arrives at the same time.
Lastly, Horner Museum of Natural History mentions that, although technically speaking, it is situated in the city, its extensive terrain extends to the rural peripheral areas. I saw a special exhibition on the prehistoric fossils of the region, which impressed me more than any modern art installation. The museum has a small parking lot behind the building, which is usually free as long as you do not come to school when the class trips fill the terrain.
Whether you are looking for a history fan, nature lover or just a bit of a change from city life – the surroundings of Charleston offer a colourful mixture of Log Cabins, State Parks and living Fairgroundsthat all have their own charm. And if at the end of your tour you are looking for a word that summarizes the whole thing, then it's just the Charleston Attractions, which make this little spot Illinois a surprisingly versatile destination.
I have to admit right at the beginning that what I call here as my top attraction is not an overpriced tourist magnet, but the venerable tourist magnet. Old Main Eastern Illinois University – a brick building that looks like it survived the 1900s because it was just too proud to say goodbye. I visited a seminar there once in the autumn, and while I tried to follow the professor, I went into the huge corridors of Efeu – a perfect example of the fact that history not only hangs on the walls, but also physically confused you. Parking is usually easy as long as you do not arrive on Monday morning after the first lecture block; then the small parking lot turns into a battlefield of students looking for the last coffee.
A short walk (or a quick bike ride if you feel athletic) leads you to Charleston City Park, one of these green oases, which one looks almost natural in a small town, but actually work here. The lake in the center is not exactly a crystal clear alpine lake, but it reflects the surrounding trees so beautiful that you almost forget that you are right in the middle of the middle west. I once made a picnic with friends, and while we made fun of the “great” urban planning, a family of ducks came by, greeting us with an almost arrogant puppet – no joke, that was almost a little play.
If you have enough of nature and want to know something about the history of the area, then this is Coles County Historical Museum That's right. The museum is housed in the old courthouse, which looks like there's been more interrogations than there were court negotiations. I have an exhibition on the 19th railway. Seeing the century, and as I strolled through the dusty rail models, the idea came to me that the city probably has more railway nostalgia than current train connections – a small contradiction that I find charming. Parking behind the museum is a bit a labyrinth, but if you find the small, weathered wooden sign “Museum Parking”, you are on the safe side.
Another jewel I always like to mention is the Charleston Public Library. The building is a classic example of the “City Library from the 1930s”, complete with high windows and a reading corner that is so cozy that you almost forget that you wanted to borrow a book for a short time. I once borrowed a book about local legends and caught the librarian, who explained to me with a slightly bitter smile that the book is “no longer on the shelf, because it was too often read by someone.” Practical: Parking is right in front of the library, but on the weekend it can be done quickly because the city then holds its “art and culture markets”.
For those who want to taste the real city life, a detour into the downtown Main Street indispensable. Here are small boutiques, a cafe that claims to serve the best cappuccino throughout the county, and the old cinema that still shows “classical” films – yes, that is really a place where you can see a movie from the 1950s while you hand-crack popcorn. I forgot an umbrella there and had to find it in the shop window of the antique shop the next day; the staff pointed out to me with an eye-catcher that the “lost and found system” here is virtually a local landmark.
A bit away from the hustle and bustle, but still an integral part of the Charleston Attractionsis the St. Mary’s Catholic Church. The church is not only a place of prayer, but also an architectural statement: high vaults, colored glass windows that immerse the light in an almost sacral color play. I was there once at a wedding, and while the bride was standing in a sea of roses, I thought this is probably the only time that I really sneeze for a glass of champagne that does not come from a pub. The parking spaces behind the church are small, but if you arrive early enough, you will get a place without the usual “Kampf‐um‐den-Platz” drama.
Finally, for those who want a little movement, I recommend the Spoon River Trail. The cycle path follows the river course and offers a quiet retreat from the city noise – at least if you are not just overtaken by a jogger who loudly discusses his playlist. I spent a few hours there to photograph the sunset, and while I tried to catch the perfect picture, an older couple came by, telling me that they have been using the trail for over 20 years and that the “best” is on the way the “Stille” – a bit ironic considering that I was just accompanied by a loud bike helmet.
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