Travellers from all over the world appreciate Michiana attractions due to their unique mix of rustic history and modern coastline. I have to admit that I have never really understood why each of the old railroad rails is blackening, but when you get the 19. Century tracks along the Lake-Michigan-Uferpromenade, you suddenly feel like a time traveler with a bad GPS. Michiana, which is actually a suitcase word from Michigan and Indiana, was born in 1920 when a few clever entrepreneurs took advantage of the border to benefit from the lower taxes in the neighboring state – a trick that still characterizes the city's flair.
When I first drove over the old US‐12, which is swept through the New Buffalo Township, I immediately noticed the slightly rusted sign “Welcome to Michiana” that radiates more charm than any glittering advertising board. The inhabitants of Berrien County like to tell about the early fishermen who threw their nets here in the 1800s, and I feel that the water still tastes a bit after their stories.
It's no wonder that I keep here more often to just inhale the air – that's the real “sighting” experience you don't find in a guidebook. When you arrive by train from Chicago, get off in New Buffalo and follow the signs towards Michiana; the ride is short, but the impressions remain longer than the next coffee stop.
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Advantage:
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To find the exact point where the sun disappears behind the skyline, use the azimuth display on poi-travel.de. In Michiana, the sun travels further northwest below the horizon in summer, while in winter it takes a more southwesterly angle. With the embedded line on the map, you can determine your tripod position down to the metre.
The first stop of my little Odyssey was Warren Dunes State Parkwhere the sand dunes are almost as high as my expectations of the weather in September – that is, quite high. I spent a few hours burying myself in the sand, because the noise of the Michigan Sea sounds more soothing than the constant sum of my emails. Parking is usually a Klacks, unless you arrive there on Friday night after the barbecue; then the field becomes a small battlefield of cars and picnic baskets.
A short trip across the border to Indiana leads you to Indiana Dunes National Park. There are more bird-watching and shell-collecting action than I have experienced in my last holiday in the Alps – without expensive cable cars. I remember how I was trying to lift a particularly large shell, almost lost the balance, because a curious crane thought I was another piece of food. The way to the visitor center is well signposted, and parking is free as long as you don't have the weekend occupied with a whole family circus.
Back in Michigan, a short way leads you to St. Julian Winery in Paw Paw – a place where the vineyards are arranged so neatly that they act almost like an art work. I don't quite understand the hype about “local organic wines”, but this is a real secret tip: the “Lake Breeze” is a dry white wine that tastes at the lake after a day without actually having to swim in the water. The tasting tables are outdoors, and the staff is so loose that they almost give you the feeling you're a long-term friend, even though you just took the first sip.
A little further south, Michigan Maritime Museum in South Haven, which houses more ship models and old lighthouses than I have gathered for museum visits throughout my life. I visited an old sailing ship there, so I almost thought it would be back to sea – just to see that it was a well-preserved exhibit. The museum is located directly on the pier, so after the tour you can take a quick look at the fishing boats that are just about to design their nets.
If you're looking for a place where you can feel like a real local, then it's Harbor Country Farmers Market in New Buffalo just the right thing. I bought some fresh strawberries there that were so sweet that I almost forgot I was actually looking for a quick snack. The market is open on Saturdays from early to late, and parking is usually easy as long as you are not at the same time a street musician and a yoga course teacher who both want to use the same gap.
A little away from the usual paths lies the Lake Michigan Shoreline Trail, a 70-mile walkway that leads you through forests, beaches and small villages. I did a morning run there, where I was almost overtaken by a group of ducks who apparently held a race of their own. The trail is well marked and you can stop at any time at one of the many small parking spaces to enjoy the view – only not at the weekend when the jogger masses turn the whole piece into a treadmill.
Whether you are looking for sand dunes, wine, history or a relaxed market visit, the surroundings of Michiana, New Buffalo Township, Berrien, Michigan have something to offer for everyone. My personal favorite route combines the best of nature, culture and a bit of local irony – all without the usual tourist traps. Next time you pack your bags, remember: The Michiana Attractions are waiting to be discovered and they are definitely worth more than a few Instagram cookies.
The history of Michiana, New Buffalo Township, begins long before the modern beach bars and the overflowing holiday homes – it starts with a crumbling wooden ridge that was once used by fishermen to throw their nets into the cool wet, and today ends in a place where I spend more time feeling the sand between the toes than sitting in my own living room.
I have to admit that I have all the hype around the New Buffalo Beach not quite understand until I stood there on a windless afternoon, the sun was just hanging over the waves and a few children splashing loudly in the shallow water. This is the real highlight when you are honest: not an overpriced beach club, but a broad, open sand strip, where parking is usually a children's game – except for the hot Saturday afternoons, there is a small mess of campers and families who desperately seek a free place.
A short walk northward leads you to New Buffalo Lighthouse, an inconspicuous but charming lighthouse that has been guarding the ship since 1902. I once made a picnic there, while an old sailor told me that the light was turned by hand earlier – a detail that you rarely find in the tourist brochures. The ascent is not particularly strenuous, and the view over the lake is a real eye-catcher, especially when the sun glows red in autumn.
If you are looking for a place where you can feel the real everyday life of the locals, then it is New Buffalo Farmers Market That's right. Every Saturday morning, when the stands are placed, it smells of fresh bread, roasted coffee beans and a pinch of thorn berries. I once tried a local honey that was so sweet that I almost forgot that I was looking for a quick snack. The market is small, but the discussions with the sellers give you the feeling of being part of a small community.
A little further I land New Buffalo Harborwhere boats gently swing and the gulls loudly express their opinion on everything. Here you can rent a kayak and spend a few hours on the water – an experience I recommend to anyone who has enough of the usual beach walks. The harbour district also has a few nice cafes where I often drink my morning coffee while watching the fishermen throw out their nets.
For those looking for a little green and tranquillity, New Buffalo State Park an underestimated jewel. The park is located right by the lake, has well maintained hiking trails and a small picnic place that is almost always empty when I go there. I once read a book that I could not finish for months – that was the only time I actually finished the book, thanks to the peaceful atmosphere.
Another must for those who want to sniff a little culture is that New Buffalo Historical Society Museum. It is small, but full of curious artefacts from the founding period, including an old phone that was still operated with a crank. I remember standing there and thinking about an antique fishing gear that looked like it could come from a steampunk film. The museum is free, and the staff is so friendly that they almost give you the feeling that you would be a long-term visitor.
And yes, I can Michiana Attractions do not forget to make the whole area a special spot – from the small wineries along the Harbor Country Wine Trail to the hidden art galleries I accidentally discovered on a side street. I tried a glass of local red wine there that was so good that I almost forgot that I was looking for a quick snack. At the end of the day, when the sun sinks above the lake and starts flickering the lights of the beach bars, I am always grateful that I have discovered this place – with all its small macks, its honest beauty and the quiet, slightly cynical whispers that only understand locals.
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