Honestly, if you're looking for "Haviland Sights", you won't be served a tourist paradise, but a piece of Ohio that has hardly changed since the 1850s – and that's exactly what I love about it. The small community was created when the railway broke through the prairie, and the name comes from one of the early railway directors, not from any Hollywood star. Today, Haviland is cozy in Blue Creek Township, Paulding County, and looks like a forgotten chapter from a history book that has been abandoned.
I usually drive through State Route 108, which leads you directly to the heart of the village; a short trip to Paulding, the County Seeat, is practical if you don't want to get the car completely out of the dust. The local cemetery is a silent witness of the pioneers, and the old depot, which now serves as a warehouse for agricultural equipment, has a charm you would never find in modern shopping centers. No joke, the rustling of the corn fields in the summer is almost meditative, and the few but warm faces in the local pub give you the feeling that you are really welcome here.
If you're wondering why I'm here, although the "Haviland Sights" label doesn't just scream for adventure, it's because the real Ohio is not in the brochures, but in the quiet moments between the fields, the conversations with the old farmers and the quiet rats of the old railway line, which still moves across the country.
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The first stop I couldn't miss was that Paulding County Historical Museum in the city of the same name, just a short cat jump from Haviland. The building itself is a relic from the 1930s, and the exhibitions – from ancient land machines to handwritten journals of the pioneers – feel as if one leaves through the dusty sides of a family album. I have learned more about local agriculture than I would ever find in a modern agricultural blog, and parking is almost always a crusade, as long as you don't get to the weekly market on Saturday morning, then the field before the museum becomes a battlefield.
A few miles further, beyond the fields, this is Blue Creek Wildlife Area, a true paradise for birdwatchers and everyone who likes to be in the mud. I remember, as in the autumn, with an old binoculars that I had stolen from the attic, I've seen a redmilan that floated over the reed – a sight that makes every Instagram filter superfluous. The paths are well marked, but the toilets are a bit improvised; a sign indicates that they are cleaned regularly only in the summer, so better have a plan B in the backpack beforehand.
If you have enough of the silence of nature, the path to Defiance leads to Fort Defiance State Park. The old military post of 19th Century is today a popular photo motif, and I must admit that I do not understand the “hypoy” about historical forts – until I stood there and heard the echo of the cannons from a distance. The park not only offers hiking trails, but also a small lake where you can take a cool bath in the summer. The car park is small, so it's better to show up early there, otherwise you have to park at the edge and take the footpath over the grass.
A short trip back to Paulding brings you to Paulding County Courthouse, an imposing brick building dating back to 1885, which today still serves as a court building. I made a tour there with a local historian who told me that the court building once served as a meeting place for the first election meetings of the County – a bit like a Swiss stone pocket knife. The interiors are surprisingly well preserved, and parking right in front of the main entrance is almost always easy thanks to the wide road.
Another highlight I couldn't leave is that Paulding County Fairgrounds. All year round, there are all kinds of events – from livestock auctions to old-timer markets to the legendary summer night concerts where the local country band “The Prairie Rollers” regularly take over the microphone. I was once at a rodeo that was so loud that I thought the whole county would collapse. The approach is uncomplicated, and there are plenty of free parking, as long as you do not arrive during the annual County Fairs, then the terrain becomes the car park.
Last but not least a short trip to Maumee River State Park, only about 30 miles south. The river, which flows through soft canyons, is a magnet for kayaking and anglers. I spent a few hours there while I tried to catch a pike – an undertaking that ended rather in a slapstick comedy because I had more water in the boat than fish. The park offers picnic places and a small visitor centre, which is occupied only in the summer, so better to call beforehand when planning a tour.
Next time you're in the area, don't forget that Haviland Attractions not only lie in the small town itself, but extend over the surrounding landscape – from museums to historical forts to wild nature reserves that tell every traveler a little more about the real Ohio.
I have to admit that what I admire most about Haviland is not some chic café, but the venerable café. Haviland Bridge over the Maumee River. The concrete arch from the late 30s seems to have survived all the madness of modernity and smiles a little bit divine. I stood there on a windy afternoon, the water whipped against the pillars, and thought to myself: “No wonder that this is a popular photo motif – this is almost a monument for people who prefer bridges than people.” Parking is usually easy, except on Saturday night, there will be a real problem because then the local anglers and a few curious tractor drivers occupy the field at the same time.
A short walk down the river leads you to Haviland United Methodist Church, a small brick building that has been the heart of the municipality since the 1880s. I once visited a Sunday service there – no joke, the hymns still sound like from another time, and the pastor has a humor that almost reminds of the dry irony of the place. If you ask yourself if this is a place for silent reflection, then look at the old benches: they are so worn out that you almost feel they would keep any of your secrets.
Directly next to the church, Haviland Cemeterya cemetery that tells more stories than a museum. I discovered an old tombstone that dates back to 1902 and bears the name “E. J. Haviland” – a hint that the city has not forgotten its name. The terrain is surprisingly well maintained, and the rustling of the trees in autumn gives the place an almost poetic note that one would not expect if one only thinks of “small rural community”.
A bit further east, hidden between corn fields, this is Haviland Schoolhouse, a one-time one-room school building that today serves as a small museum. I found an old board where there are still chalk drawings of children from the 1920s – a bit cheesy, but honestly, this is the real flair of Haviland. The entrance is of course free, because the building is being entertained by the community itself, and that means that you don't have to go around here with overpriced souvenirs.
If you're looking for a place to just sit and watch life, then the Maumee River Fishing Spot close to the bridge entrance exactly the right one. I caught a couple of pikes there on a hot July day – no joke, and that was the only time that I had the feeling that nature would give me some respect. The shore is easily accessible, a few benches of recycled wood stand ready, and the water is so clear that you almost feel you could throw your worries in and they would flow away with the stream.
Another, more underestimated jewel is the old Haviland Grain Elevator Highway 127. It is not exactly a museum, but the massive wood structure reminds of the times when the grain was the true gold here. I once asked the operator why he did not modernize the old device, and he grinned only and said: “We adhere to traditions because this is our heartbeat.” This is the kind of dry but loving cynic that you feel everywhere.
And yes, if you have a list of Haviland Attractions seek, then you will not be overrun by shiny luminescent complaints, but by honest, lightly crunching experiences that remind you that travel does not always have to strive for shine. I have the feeling that everyone who comes here has the need to take a little bit of this quiet, slightly sarcastic atmosphere home – be it a photo of the bridge mirror, a piece of chalk from the board or just the quiet noise of the river that reminds you that life sometimes just flows on.
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