Honestly, when I think of the beginnings of Sullivan, I see the dusty railroad railroads of 1853, which link the small town in the heart of Hamilton Township, Sullivan County, to the rest of the world. The founders were not romantics, but pragmatists who recognized the potential of coal mining – and yes, the city has shaped a bit so far. I usually travel across the US-41, because the highway almost runs like a red thread through the middle country, and when I turn into the main road, you immediately feel the slightly sloping smile of a city that does not take itself too seriously.
I don't quite understand the hype about the old factory buildings, but the small cafés next to the historic town hall are really great – here you get the best coffee I ever drank in a place with less than 5 000 inhabitants. And while most of the guides of “Sullivan Sights” only count the obvious, I learned that the true highlight is the annual autumn festival in the city park, where locals distribute their homemade apple cakes and you feel like being part of a very large family celebration.
So, when you arrive by train, just get to the next stop from Evansville, take the bus to Sullivan and let you take away from the mix of history, light cynicism and surprising cordiality – this is my personal recommendation, and I promise you will not be disappointed.
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The first stop I could not miss was the Hoosier National Forest – a huge green piece that spreads around Sullivan like an ungrounded diamond. I drove the Kurvige County Road 45, parked at the small parking lot on the Hickory-Ridge Trail and was immediately impressed by the silence that was only interrupted by the occasional rustling of the jaws. The path is well marked, the terrain is moderately hilly, so no reason to leave the hiking shoes at home; I even saw some lost mountain bikers who were angry about the narrow paths, because the weather suddenly turned around. If you are looking for a little fresh air and a little distance from the urban noise, you will find the perfect counterpart to everyday life.
A short trip to the south leads to the Patoka Lake, the largest dam Indiana’s. I remember standing on the shores of a hot July afternoon, a cool beer in my hand, and the water glittered like a mirror that reflected the surrounding forests. Parking is usually easy at the main entrance, except for the weekends when anglers and boaters flood the shore. A small kiosk sells snacks, but the real highlight is the boat dock where you can spontaneously rent a kayak – a real secret tip for spontaneous paddle tours.
The O'Bannon Woods State Park is only half an hour away. There is not only a picturesque lake, but also a well-developed network of hiking and cycling trails that lead through dense beech forests. I tried the 2 miles loop around Lake Cedar and was surprised how well the signs explain the route – no GPS needed if you don't want to move. The visitor centre has a small café serving surprisingly good apple cake; that is definitely a reason to stay longer than you originally planned.
A jump into history leads to New Harmony, the charming town that was once founded as a utopian community by Robert Owen. I strolled through the headstone paved streets, past the restored half-timbered houses, and almost felt like I was walking in another era. The local museum tells the story of the early social reformers, and the café in the square serves homemade lemonade that tastes better than any industrial variant. Parking is easy to find on the outskirts of the center, but on Saturday afternoons it can become a bit fuller there, because the city is a popular destination for day trips.
A little further east, on the banks of the Ohio River, rises the Cannelton Locks and Dam – a technical miracle that is a magnet for both shippers and photography lovers. I stood there, while a cargo ship was groomed by the sluices, and noticed that the visitor center offers free guided tours, but only at certain times. Parking is free at the main entrance, but the paths to the viewpoint are somewhat steep, i.e. fixed footwear recommended. The view over the river at sunset is a picture you don't forget.
To complete my small tour through the surroundings of Sullivan, a trip to the Muscatatuck National Wildlife Refuge – a true paradise for birdwatchers and nature lovers. I have seen rare species such as the blackneck diver, while I walked along the well-preserved track along the Muscatatuck River. The visitor center offers information material, and parking is almost always free at the main entrance, except during the annual hunting season when the area can be closed to the public.
When exploring the surroundings of Sullivan, you will discover a surprisingly diverse range of experiences – from deep forests to glittering lakes to historic towns and impressive engineering services. These Sullivan Attractions show that the region has far more to offer than one would suspect at first glance, and they invite every modern traveler to wander a little off the beaten path.
I have to admit that my favorite place in Sullivan is not some hip Rooftop bar – it's the honorable Sullivan County Courthousein the heart of the city. The building from 1908 is a real piece of romance, and if you honestly ask yourself why I am standing here at all: because I love the sound of the wooden stairs that reminds you that real decisions were made here earlier. Parking is usually easy as long as you do not arrive on Friday night after the county meeting – then the small garage in front of the town hall becomes a real battlefield.
A short walk down Main Street leads you to Sullivan County Museum. I don't quite understand the hype about interactive exhibitions, but here there are actually some original tools from the coal mining period that remind you that this city is not only made up of fieldway coffee houses. The museum is located right next to the town hall, so after the visit you can quickly take a look at the imposing clockwork of the courthouse – a real eye-catcher if you happen to be there at 12 o'clock.
If you are looking for something that is less dusty and more “ich‐bin‐hier‐und‐ich‐mag‐es”, then look at this antique shops on Main Street on. I found a 1950s radio there that still worked – no joke that is part of my collection. The shops open early, and parking is almost always a klack thanks to the small but fine parking areas behind the town hall. A short stop for a cappuccino in the “Bean & Bread” is almost obligatory because the place is supposed to have the best muffin in the city – and this is not just my opinion, at least the locals say.
You need a little green, of course, and here comes the Sullivan Community Park in the game. The park is not exactly a national park, but it has a well maintained playground, a small lake and the Veterans Memorial, which is maintained by a group of veterans every year on 11 November. I once made a picnic there, while an older gentleman told me stories from the Second World War – that was almost as exciting as a movie, just without popcorn. Parking is available at the main entrance, but on Saturday afternoon it can be quite crowded because the families use the playground.
For those who prefer to stay inside, the Sullivan County Public Library a real secret tip. I found my lost notes there more than once that I had hidden in a book because I thought no one would ever read them. The library offers free Wi-Fi and a cozy reading room that is perfect if you need some rest after a long day outdoors. Parking is directly opposite, so no stress when you arrive by car.
Another highlight I don't want to conceal is the Sullivan County Fairgrounds. Yes, it sounds like a place where you only find a giant wheel in August, but the fairgrounds are active all year round – from Rodeos to local craft markets. I once saw a real cop there who had more personality than some politicians, and that was a real highlight. The approach is uncomplicated because the fairgrounds are located directly on Highway-41, and parking is almost always sufficient as long as you do not come to the main event.
If you now think that this is all too much to find it in a little town, then let me tell you that the Sullivan Attractions actually offer a good piece of diversity that is missing in many larger cities. I've found more history, charm and a bit of cynicism here than I expected – and that's the real argument for me why you should come by here.
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