Honestly, if you think Ohio is just corn fields and endless highways, you haven't seen Covington yet. The city was founded in 1816, a bit like a forgotten chapter from the Wildwest Book of Midwest pioneers, and is cozy in the heart of Newberry Township, Miami County. I have the feeling that the old brick houses are telling more stories here than some travel guide blog, and that without a bang.
A short detour by car over the State Route 48 – yes, this is the main beater that brings you here – leads you directly to the center where you can feel the flair of a city that doesn't get too close to the next trend. I don't understand the hype around the big metropolises, but here there is a small café that serves the best apple pie wide and wide – no joke, that's almost a cult.
If you have the urge to sniff a bit of nature, look at the nearby Miami‐County Park. The way there is a walk along the old railway line, which used to be the backbone of the trade. And yes, this is another hint at Covington's sights that you don't find in every guide because they are too authentic to market them.
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The first stop of my little Odyssey was the Hueston Woods State Park, a piece of untouched nature, which is only about half an hour drive from Covington. I have to admit that I was initially skeptical – a state park in Ohio doesn't sound like an exotic adventure – but the clear, emerald green surface of Lake Snowden has knocked me around immediately. Kayaking here is almost a ritual I repeat every time the weather plays; the water is so calm that you can almost hear the paddles when you let the small wooden boats pass by the banks. Parking is usually easy, except for the long weekends in summer, then there is a regular traffic jam of caravans and family cars that all share the same desire for a bathroom in the lake.
A short detour to the south leads me to the Serpent Mound, the enigmatic earthwork, which for centuries has occupied archaeologists and curiosity equally. I visited the monument at sunrise – a moment when the silhouette of the snake is almost supernatural, while the cool morning air blows over the fields. The way to the summit is a bit bumpy, but this is part of the charm; I met an old farmer there who told me that he came here to the full moon every year to “feel the energy of the earth”. Whether this is Hokuspokus or not, I have the feeling that the mystery is really alive here.
Located near Covington, the Little Miami Scenic Trail is a 78-kilometre long cycle path that stretches through gentle hills, forests and small villages. I have explored the trail several times, mostly with my folding mountain bike that makes more noise than an old diesel tractor. Nevertheless, the experience is incomparable: you drive past old barns, which are still guarded by crows, and can stop at any time at one of the many picnic places to eat a sandwich – this is my personal definition of “return place in the green”. Easy parking there are at most trail access points, but at weekends it can be as full as at the lake.
A little further east, in the historic city of Troy, is the Miami County Historical Museum. I visited the museum on a rainy afternoon because I thought a bit of history could distract me from bad weather. The exhibition about the early settlers and the railways, which once drove through the valley, was surprisingly alive; an interactive model of an old steam locomotive almost let me hear the hustle and bustle of the locomotive. The museum is located right next to the old County Courthouse, and parking is almost always a children's game because the terrain is large enough to hide a few cars.
Just a few miles further, Oxford is home to Miami University, and with it the Miami University Art Museum. I visited the museum on a sunny Saturday afternoon because after a long walk through downtown Oxford I wanted to refresh a little culture. The collection is a colourful mix of contemporary art and historical works, and I was particularly impressed by an installation of recycled metal parts that shaped the word “consumption” in large, shimmering letters. The museum has a small but fine cafe area where I enjoyed a latte while I thought about the scrupulous works of art. Parking is still relatively relaxed here as long as you don't get to the lecture time, then the small garage fills up faster than a popcorn bag.
The Great Miami River, which swells gently through the landscape, is another highlight I don't want to miss. I discovered the river bank on a warm July night when I started fishing with some friends. The sun was reflected in the water, and the quiet plough was almost hypnotic. We rented a small raft – a wood-clapping thing that wobbled more than a drunken tourist – and are a piece of flow up. This is the true “Ohio-Feeling” that is not found in guides, but only when you sit in the water and hear the sum of the grills. A small car park on the river is always present, but on the hot summer days it can be filled quickly because everyone is looking for a cool bath.
Another annual event that shapes the region is the Miami County Fair, which takes place at the Fairgrounds in Troy. I spent the first time in August when the stands were full of fresh corn flasks, handmade works of art and loud children's laughs. The rides are not exactly the most modern, but the giant bike offers a surprisingly good view over the entire county – a perfect place to shoot a few photos that will later provide envy in the social media. Parking is a bit chaotic here, because the lots often forget to close the entrance so that you sometimes drive in circles until you finally find a free place.
Lastly, I must not mention the Oxford Farmers Market, which pulsates every Saturday morning in the heart of the city. I discovered my favorite places of fresh strawberries that come directly from a small family farm. The market is a true collection of local products, handmade soaps and occasional street musicians, which provide mood with their guitar. A short parking behind the town hall is usually free as long as you don't get too late – then the whole thing becomes a small adventure, where you'll get through between the stands to get the last piece of cheese.
When you explore the surroundings of Covington, you can quickly see that the region has more to offer than just a few residential roads. From the quiet waters of Hueston Woods to the ancient mystery of Serpent Mound to the lively markets and museums in Oxford and Troy – there is something to discover for every taste. And that's exactly what makes Covington Attractions to an underestimated treasure for those who want to travel off the beaten paths.
I have to confess to you: the first thing that comes to mind with Covington is the venerable Covington City Hall. The building is located in the heart of the town, a bit like a stone selfie object for those who like to inhale a bit of history without entering a museum. I stole a city map there – no joke, I just took it out of the showcase because the map was so obsolete that it is almost an art work. Parking is usually easy, except on Saturday night, there will be a real problem because then everyone from the area will flow to the “city festival”.
Directly next to the town hall, the Covington Public Library – a place I like to call a “Bücherbunker”. The shelves are full, the staff is friendly, and the café on the ground floor serves the best espresso I have ever drank in a small Ohio town. I once borrowed a book about local bird species, just to realize that the birds are as loud as the neighbors when they cut the hedges on Sundays.
If you're looking for something green, look at this Covington City Park on. The park is not exactly a national park, but the playgrounds are clean, the picnic tables are stable and the small swimming pool (yes, a real swimming pool) is a real magnet for families in the summer. I took a spontaneous bath there in July because the water was surprisingly warm – a small luxury that I no longer want to miss.
A little further down the street, Covington Historical Society Museum. This is not a huge museum, rather a cozy basement, in which old school books, photos and a dusty phone from the 1920s are displayed. I found an old map that shows that Covington was once an important hub for the railway – a fact that I had never seen before. The museum is free, but bring some coins for the old donation box, otherwise you will not get a stamp for your “I‐war‐her” home.
Another highlight I do not want to conceal is the weekly Covington Farmers Market. Every Saturday morning, the streets are filled with fresh vegetables, homemade jams and a choir from sellers who tell you that their fruit comes “directly from the field” – and that is usually true. I tried some peaches there that were so juicy that I almost forgot that I was looking for coffee.
For those who love the water, there is Ohio River Overlook. The view over the river is not exactly spectacular as in the big metropolises, but the noise of the water and the opportunity to see a few boats passing by has something calming. I have often sorted my thoughts there while I held a sandwich from the market in my hand – a perfect moment to enjoy life without much lifting.
And because I don't just want to mention the classic “sights”, I still have to Covington Community Center mention. The center offers yoga classes, a small gym and in the evening a karaoke event that has led more than once to slapping vocal attempts – no joke, I saw a man there who tried to sing “Bohemian Rhapsody” and almost broke the microphone. That's a good sign that people have fun here, right?
If you now think that this is too much, let me tell you: Covington sights are not the kind of attractions you find in guidebooks because they are too small to impress. They are the small, slightly slanted corners that give you the feeling of being really part of something – and that is for me the true voyage.
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