Travellers from all over the world appreciate Bethany's sights because of their unique mix of history and rural simplicity, which you rarely find in a single small place. I have always wondered why this tiny community still exists in the heart of Marrowbone Township, Moultrie County, until I saw the dusty roads and the Bethany, founded in 1850, which once served as a stop for cattle farmers and later as a post office. The old wooden houses, which still carry the echo of the pioneering period, almost seem like a silent protest against modernity, and I must admit that I cannot fully understand the whole “Rustic-Charm” hype, but the barn gate at the end of Main Street has something irresistible authentic.
To come here, it is recommended to take Highway 24, then a short trip to County Road 12 – not a luxury, but a real sense of freedom when crossing the endless corn fields. Once arrived, you meet the friendly residents who know more about the history of the place than any guide: They tell you about the small church built in 1883 and still brings a little light to the area every Sunday. And as I walk past the old water mill, I notice that silence is almost tangible here – a perfect place to turn off the phone and just breathe before returning to the hectic world.
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The first stop is the imposing Moultrie County Courthouse in Sullivan – a brick building that looks like someone was saved from a 1915 movie and then dragged into the present. I have once observed a trial that was more like a soap opera, and must admit that the high ceilings and the creeping wood really bring a little drama into the otherwise so quiet area. Parking is usually a Klacks as long as you don't arrive there on Friday night after the local pub, then parking becomes a small adventure.
Only a few blocks further lies the Moultrie County Historical Museum, a place I am underestimating until I saw the old carriage from the 1880s, which stands there – a real piece of history that is not only interesting for historians. I don't quite understand the hype about interactive touchscreens, but the handmade models of the old farms are just fantastic and give you the feeling you could just step out into the fields. The entrance is free, but the café next door demands for a coffee almost double that you pay in a normal diner.
A short trip south leads to the Kaskaskia River State Fish & Wildlife Area, a true paradise for anglers and nature lovers. I caught a huge rush there, which was almost as big as my car – a real lucky handle, if you like the quiet atmosphere and the quiet strollers of the river. Entering is free, but parking can quickly be completed on weekends because the hunting companies also love the area.
A bit further north, about 30 miles from Bethany, is Lake Shelbyville State Park. There are more boats here than people, and the water is so clear that you almost feel like being in the swimming pool – only with more ducks and less chlorine. I rented a kayak there and paddled all day over the small bays, while I tried to ignore the local families who were holding their barbecue parties loudly. The parking lot at the main entrance is huge, but on hot summer days you can be there better early, otherwise you can be in traffic as at a concert.
Back in Sullivan, you can't leave the legendary Sullivan High School Football Stadium. The “Tigers” play here every autumn weekend, and the whole town gathers to see the game – a bit like a Mini Super Bowl, only with more corn and less glitter. I once went to a game where the heating in the stadium fell out, and the fans still cheered as if it were part of the ritual. Parking is right in front of the stadium, but the field fills up faster than a popcorn bag in the microwave.
A last, more underestimated place is the old Bethany Community Hall, which today serves as a venue for local art and craft markets. I spent a weekend there where a local sculptor exhibited his sculptures from recycled metal – a real eye-catcher that splashes the otherwise sober landscape. The interior of the hall is simple, but the atmosphere is surprisingly lively, especially when the villagers offer their homemade jams.
Whether you are looking for historic brick buildings, quiet river banks, a huge lake or the pulsating heart of a small high-school football community – the surroundings of Bethany, Marrowbone Township, Moultrie, Illinois have something to offer for everyone. And if you have experienced all this, you finally understand why the Bethany Attractions possess such a special charm that enthuses both the curious traveller and the inmeated locals.
The history of Bethany begins long before the first highway sign that I have ever overlooked – it lies deeply buried in the mud of the Kaskaskia, where the first settlers stopped their carts and wished a little civilization to lean. I visited the old Bethany United Methodist Church, which was built in 1868 from a simple wooden frame and is still watching over the village with its sloping but proud top of the tower. One I stood there during a Sunday service, and while the church sang quietly, I thought: “Here more will be prayed than in some great cathedral.” The interior is surprisingly spacious, the benches are charming, and the small museum in the cellar – a collection of cuckoo clocks and handwritten church books – is a must for everyone who has Bethany Attractions to give a historical touch.
Just a short walk further lies the Bethany Cemetery, a silent hain of weathered tombstones that tell more stories than most tourist brochures. I found an old veteran grave there, whose inscription in pale gold almost seems poetic: “Here is a man who saw more mud than the sea.” This is exactly the kind of melancholic charm that you do not googelt, but experienced – and yes, parking is usually a Klack, as long as you do not come on Saturday night, then the field behind the cemetery becomes a battlefield for caravans.
Another highlight I like to look over because I am too proud to recommend it is the Bethany Schoolhouse. The former one-room classroom from the 1920s was transformed into a small museum that preserves the school bench memories of the villagers. I sat there on a shaky wooden bench, heard the echo of an old teacher who called “Silence!” and thought that this is the kind of education you can no longer find in modern classrooms – real, dusty, honest learning environment.
If you're looking for a place to raise your feet, look at the Bethany Community Park. The small green strip on the river bank is not just a Disneyland, but it has a picnic table, an old carousel that only runs in summer, and a barbecue area where the locals prepare their famous “Kettle-Corn-Hotdogs”. I once experienced a spontaneous street music duet with a local Banjo player – no joke, that was almost better than a concert in the city.
A little further north, where the road becomes a little bumpy, the Bethany Bridge leads you over the Kaskaskia. It is not the latest construction, but it has character – a slight swing that reminds you that you do not live in a concrete desert. I took a photo there while a tractor was flying past, and thought: “Here you could almost build a romantic film set if you don’t love the dust so much.” The best thing: parking is right on the river where you can park your car on a small hill, as long as you are not lucky to have a farm celebrating a harvest.
Finally, I must not forget the Bethany Grain Elevator, which has been the backbone of local agriculture since the 1950s. The silver silo system is a landmark that you see from the highway, and if you are lucky, you can see the old mill in operation – a sound that sounds almost like a heartbeat for the village. I once met an old miller who told me that the flour is still ground “by feeling” here, and I had to admit that I miss the industrial buckling snack a bit.
Of course there is the Bethany Diner, which has been serving the same burgers for decades, and the small fire station that has more stories than the local museum. But that's enough for a first tour – I hope you have a picture of why I defend this inconspicuous spot of earth with a slightly cynical smile. And if you ask yourself where to drink your next cup of coffee: The diner around the corner always has a free chair as long as you don't talk too loud about the “big cities”.
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